
Ring by Pol Bury
A new inspirational exhibition just closed at the Museum of Art and Design in New York titled Artist as Jeweller. As the title describes it, it was an exhibition of established artists working in the jewellery field.
So where does art end and jewellery begin? It seems that jewellery can be any object that is worn on the body; as soon as you put a string through a stone and hang it around your neck it becomes jewellery – it is that simple.
So in the same way, as soon as you put a string through a miniature sculpture, it becomes art/jewellery, as long as it is made by someone officially regarded as an artist.
But what I always ask myself is: Is this a good piece of jewellery?
And by good I would define it as: 1. beautiful or striking to look at, 2. easy to wear, 3. designed in a way that is suitable to production and 4. well-functioning (good hinges, clasps, etc). There is another, fifth parameter which sets just good apart from the best and that is about being new, inventive, different or modern. When I look at art jewellers featured in the book, some of them are really exceptional as jewellery designers too (the amazing Pol Bury, George Braque, Frank Stella) and some are just being artists. Because the thing is, a jewellery piece also needs to be designed around the principles of good design, not just created as a vessel for an art idea.
Below are a few of my favourite pieces:

A brooch by Georges Braque

A brooch by Georges Braque

Brooch by Salvador Dali

Ring by Frank Stella

Cuff by Pol Bury